OK, it's about time to switch this thing up. What have I learned since last time? Plenty I guess. Man it is hard to impart knowledge though, so I probably won't even try here. I've realized just how much my life is linked to climbing in this moment, and how easy it is to make changes. Finally I am ready for real personal growth, and I am trying not to hide behind my fears any more. I feel alive, happy to be here on the planet Earth, and ready to deal with the new challenges that will come my way. And that feels good. Thanks everyone.
Music
The only thing I love as much as climbing...
Favorite Rock Climbs
"Super Slab"-ELDO
"It's a Party all The Time"-NRG
"Rumor has It"-RIFLE
"La Cholla Jackson"-SHELF ROAD
"Babyface"-HUECO
"Lost and Found"-RIFLE
"Cheap Date"-LUMPY
"Culp-Bossier"-ROCKY MOUNTAIN N.P.
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Brian and I had the pleasure of spending the weekend in Rocky Mountain attempting some excellent climbs. I say attempting because we were unsuccessful as far as reaching any summit is concerned. Thankfully for me and Brian reaching the summit is not the most important part of the journey, rather the journey itself is what's important.
We drove up to Estes Park late Friday night, camped for five hours, the woke at three o'clock in the morning to start out first day. Leaving the trail head at four we hiked up the five mile approach to the base of our intended climb, Dreamweaver, on Mt Meeker. However even with our crack of dawn start there were five other climbers ahead of us on this steep snow climb. After much consideration we decided that we would rather attempt another climb and risk failing, as opposed to following on the footsteps of five others. Also, in these steep rock and snow chutes whenever the parties above knock down snow or rocks they only have one place to go, and that isn't a good feeling either. So we decided to try a climb on the opposite side of the Flying Buttress, a huge rock formation that splits the north face of Mt Meeker. The Flying Buttress is a fin of rock, literally flying off the face and plummeting down to the slopes below. Dreamweaver climbs along the left hand margin, and there are a couple other routes hidden behind the right side. We approached on steep but solid snow, breathing hard in the thin air. From down on the slopes below we could not tell if the Right Chimney, our newly chosen route, was in good enough shape to climb. With snow and ice climbing the conditions can vary greatly, and in the spring it is hard to know what you will find. If the snow is too loose and unconsolidated it is very difficult or impossible to climb. Without solid snow or ice a climber is left to claw up with his ice axes and crampons scraping on bare rock. While possible, this was not the experience we were looking for. As we approached we could not tell if the climb was in shape or not. We could only see a little snow peeking out of the chimney, a wide slot carved into the face of the mountain. Eventually we were forced to rope up, putting on our harnesses and tying into the rope. I led through one pitch that was a mixture of rotten, unconsolidated snow and bare rock. It was a challenging pitch, unlike any I have led before. At the base of the chimney I could see that it offered only more of the same, and after discussing our options as a team we decided that we were not prepared for this climb. So we bailed out, heading down only six hundred feet from the summitS. Such is the life of an alpinist, especially a budding one.
That afternoon we headed into town for a bite to eat, then into the park for a nap in the sun. Afterwards we went into the forest to camp for the evening. We were both tuckered out and fell asleep very early. The next morning we had a relaxing time packing up camp and preparing for our next outing. That afternoon we would be heading out another five miles into a different part of the park. From that base camp we would attempt a climb called the Blitzen Ridge on Mt Ypsilon. Mt Ypsilon rises over 5000 feet from the trail head, and almost three thousand from our high camp. The ridge itself is comprised of large pinacles called the Four Aces that must be negotiated with roped up technical climbing. We expected the climbing to be fairly easy, even in boots and with heavy packs, and hoped that we would make good time during our attempt.
We left the trail head in the afternoon and hiked a little over two hours to reach Ypsilon Lake, our camp spot. Due to the rules and regulations in Rocky Mountain we could only use our bivy sacks to camp here at the lake. A bivy sack is a cocoon of waterproof fabric, big enough for only one body with a sleeping bag. There are no windows, and closed up in bad weather there is no opening what-so-ever. On the hike up it began to rain slightly, and by the time
The job goes well. I am having a good time working and hanging out around Vail and Summit County. It feels so good to be back in the mountains again. This job is interesting and I am getting to do many things that I haven't in the past. Lots of layout using blueprints, and a lot more responsability. I feel ready for it though and it has gone smoothly for me this first month. There is a new apprentice working with me now and we are getting along really well. There isn't a lot of pressure yet, but we are staying busy all day which is good for making the time pass quickly. Nothing worse than being at work with nothing to do, that's what I think. So I am looking forward to seeing what will come next here in Vail, probably just more of the same old construction thing. One great thing on this job is the amount of Spanish being spoken every day. Well, it's great for me anyway. I don't think everyone is as big a fan as I am. So, needless to say I am getting a lot of practice with my Spanish, and I am making new friends from other countries. It feels so good to be using the skills that I was learning while in Guatemala and I feel that I will probably be speaking better at the end of this summet instead of starting with a defecit for my next forray into a Spanish speaking country. I hope the photos give some impression of what the job is like, although it was difficult to capture such a large place in these little photos. I'll keep you all posted if anything interesting happens.
Well I had the pleasure of spending another week out at the Creek. Six days of climbing, one day of resting. It was a relentless routine, waking at eight o’clock in the morning, going for a run, eating a huge breakfast, hiking to the crags by noon, and climbing until the sun went down. Brutal I tell you, totally brutal. The trip was a wonderful success as I managed to push myself further yet, falling off of some more really good climbs. I also was able to break through to a new level of onsight climbing. That’s when you can climb something on the first try, no falling, no resting on the rope, and I find it to be one of the most rewarding experiences in climbing. Nothing better than walking up to the base of a new climb, feeling my stomach churn with excitement and nervousness, trying to convince myself I can do it, and then actually succeeding.
Other than the fact that I climbed very well during my trip it was special because of the time I got to spend with my good friend Mary, and then a little later in the trip Chad. You may remember them as the culprits of the Zion big wall climb. We were able to share more amazing times together, on and off the rock, our relationships growing and evolving like any good one should. I also went for a couple of beautiful runs out in the desert. HA! Who would have ever guessed that I would use the word “beautiful” in the same sentence as the word “run.” I never would have guessed it, but it’s true. I have become at least a little hooked on the running experience, and who wouldn’t enjoy it in such an amazing place. We also took a nice little trip out to Canyonlands National Park, my first time ever inside the park itself. We had a great little hike and enjoyed the very beginning of spring flowers poking through the cryptobiotic soil. What a beautiful place, I will have to go back again for further exploration.
I guess that pretty much sums up our trip, and now as Chad and Mary continue there adventures in the desert West I have returned to Summit County, the place I love, to work at Vail Mountain building more big buildings for the wealthy ski industry. At least I can have no guilt building in a place as commercially oriented as Vail. Lord knows that one more huge hotel/condo/restaurant/ski shop/parking garage palace won’t change the atmosphere of this town. And I am more than happy to take a small portion of the money they are handing out. So it looks like I’ll be kept busy through the summer, maybe longer if I wish, climbing and dreaming of the times when I had no job. And of course planning the next phase!
Petra French
Re: hi Robyn im new to your area and dont really know anyone i like movies, shopping, and just hanging out.. can u hit me back up on msn messengar my name there is jane25bebo@live.com
Sam Henehan
u r the man.
ps sorry jus bebo stalking
49 weeks ago
Christine English
Orin! I am so impressed!! And virtually amazed at all that you have seen and done since I talked with you last (which was not a short time ago!). Your first big wall was amazing.. very awe-inspiring and the pictures are priceless. thanks for sharing all of your adventures with those of us who are land and computer locked! Keep the adventures from Guatemala coming.. they are very intriguing. take care
christie
